Tuesday 13th June
Today we finally completed the pulpit rock hike, something we’d been looking forward to since we started planning this trip. The stunning hiking route led us through the forest, past giant boulders and sparkling lakes, with fjord views in all directions. How is that even possible? Every time we reached a peak we would see Norway’s awe-inspiring coastline in another direction and say
“I swear the sea was the other way…?”
But nope the fjords are apparently in every possible direction and it’s amazing.
Three things we learnt about Lex on this hike:
– Lex makes hikes very slow. At the grand age of 14, he’s OLD. And he has a heart condition and lung condition which mean he’s supposed to avoid strenuous exercise such as running. We made sure Lex had lots of breaks to avoid overexerting himself. Of course, being a dog, he didn’t understand why we had stopped and half the time he just wanted to explore instead of sitting down. But we were both very aware that he’s an old man, with limits he’s not even aware of himself.
– People from China LOVE Lex more than we thought possible. Just today, I count on two hands the number of Chinese tourists that stopped us to take photos of Lex, usually snapping at least 10 photos each time. One woman asked me (using hand-gestures) if she could take Lex to the edge of the cliff and have a photo taken of herself with him. I said no, sorry…
– Lex is so cute it’s actually a hazard and he probably shouldn’t be allowed on hiking trails. He’s like some kind of catastrophe omen. Anyone who lays eyes on him will, in the next 30 seconds, either stumble, slip, trip or fall. I kid you not. The ground is so uneven, rocky and wet, that taking your eyes off it for more than a couple of seconds WILL make you fall over. And well, people can’t help but stare at a tiny wolf scrambling up the mountain. It’s hideously cute.
On our way back down from the top, we saw a woman that had slipped and done something bad to her ankle. So bad that she actually had to be air-lifted down the mountain by helicopter. I’m pretty sure Lex is to blame for that.
So all in all, between Lex’s photo commitments and need for old man rest breaks we managed to stretch the 4 hour hike out into 7.5 hours. This might be a record, even for us.
In our defence, at least 45 minutes of this time was spent enjoying the awesomeness that is pulpit rock:
The weather was super variable today, so we spent a while waiting for the mist to momentarily clear so we could enjoy the vertigo-inspiring views down into to the sea.
That night we camped in a little nook between the mountain, the forests and the road.
Unfortunately, again, midges win the award for “worst people ever”. They swarmed us so completely when we got out of the car that we jumped straight back in after cooking dinner and spent about an hour trying to squash all the midges that had snuck into the car with us. While washing up, they flew onto my hands (being the only bare skin, with my makeshift bee-suit on) and then got stuck to my soapy skin and died. My hands were black with thousands of dead midges by the end. It was disgustingly traumatising.
After that, no one was allowed out of the car for any reason until morning, when we drove away immediately and vowed never to return to that particular woodland. Did I mention midges are immune to Deet spray? They don’t give a shit how much you slathered on yourself. Also they really enjoy biting you all over your face. Midges are the worst.
If you want to keep up with our travels as we continue on our 3-month adventure, hit the Follow button to get updated on new posts!