Sunday 11th June
The morning of day 9 saw us wake up in our cosy tent and stretch out, only to find the tent was kinda damp after a night of rain. Cosy as it is lying in a warm tent listening to rain drops, the 2 of us plus dog ensures our tiny tent is… well, over-full. Which means that something is always gonna touch the tent wall, pushing the nice dry inner lining against the rainy outer lining and soaking through.
When we set off from the UK, we honestly never considered there might be a problem with the tent, and chucked the trusty old thing into the car without even checking it was still in good condition, let alone considering if it was really big enough. It’s gonna be a long, cosy summer.
It was starting to rain again as we packed all our stuff back into the car, so obviously we decided to go hiking. On this occasion, we were rewarded for our tenacity. As we started walking the sun broke through the clouds, burning the morning mists off the fjords. Towering cliffs dropped towards the sea, leaving just a thin ledge of flat ground for red wooden houses to perch on, casting perfect reflections onto the still water.
We didn’t even get rained on one bit, despite having umbrellas and waterproof everything with us.
Some things that happened with Lex today, however:
Lex decided he really, really wanted to eat poop. So we spent the day in a tug of war while he darted into the bushes over and over again, nearly strangling himself in his attempts to get at the fresh piles of turds that various animals had left in the woods.
Lex got so muddy walking through bogs that he looked like he was wearing black booties. Before we let him in the car, we had to wash him in a mountain stream, which made him think we were trying to drown him and he wailed like a baby for a long time. We think he’s finally forgiven us now, thanks mainly to poor long-term memory.
After being foiled in his attempts to eat poop, Lex managed his other favourite trick of rolling in poop! After some serious sniffing, he dropped and rolled with ninja speed, standing up proudly to show us the fresh wet poop now matted in his fur. Lex does this to disguise his scent, so he can try to hunt the animal that pooped (apparently). Instead, Lex got attacked with wet wipes which led to him being really unhappy all over again. We’re pretty sure he learnt nothing today.
We did learn something pretty cool though: What seems to be a tradition in Norway (perhaps other places too?).
On two occasions so far, we’ve come to a nice viewpoint – first was a bench above Ana-Sira, second was a lighthouse on this hike – and discovered a small bin/box attached to a tree or bench. Within this box sits a plastic bag, within which sits a book, within which are many many names. Presumably, of people who’ve visited the spot. How adorable. So of course, we added our mark too.
Don’t ask why I was rooting around in what appeared, on first glance, to be a bin. Here’s a bad-ass sheep:
And a solar-powered lighthouse:
A storm was forecast for the night, so we decided to try sleeping in the car for the first time. Being a big old dad-car (Volvo estate), it’s huge inside, possibly even more spacious than our tent. Come evening, we looked for a place we could park overnight. We decided to follow signs for “Limagarden”, just because it sounded nice, and ended up at a “museum farm” overlooking a fjord.
We asked the 2 old guys who seem to run the museum/farm (at 7pm on Sunday night) if we could sleep in their car park. Their reaction was something like “obviously, yes!”, and not only let us sleep there but left the toilets and drinking water supplies open for us to use, and also gave us maps & directions for nice hikes to do in the area. Norwegians are awesome.
As a final thought, I’ve been overlooking a winding road running along a fjord the entire evening and all I can think is that every car that drives down it looks like it’s in a car advert.
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